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A dive torch is not standard freediving equipment — but when you need one, nothing else will do. Night freediving, spearfishing at dawn or dusk, exploring darker reef structures, or simply signalling your position to a boat in low light — a compact, powerful torch extends what is possible on a single breath.
Why a Dive Torch Matters in Freediving
Freediving and light have a different relationship than in scuba. There are no long bottom times, no overhead penetrations, and no complex multi-light configurations. A freediver needs a torch that is small, light, and powerful enough to be useful without becoming a burden. Every gram of equipment affects streamlining and hydrodynamics — and in a discipline where efficiency is measured in seconds and metres, unnecessary drag or weight is not acceptable.
The most common use cases for a freediving torch are spearfishing — scanning holes, ledges, and crevices where fish shelter — and night or low-light freediving, where a focused beam is essential for orientation and safety. A compact handheld torch with a narrow beam and strong output lets the diver illuminate a specific area at distance without flooding the entire field of vision, which is important for preserving night-adapted eyesight and avoiding startling marine life.
What Makes a Good Freediving Torch
Compact size is the priority. A freediver typically holds the torch in one hand throughout the dive — there is no harness-mounted primary light, no goodman handle, no bolt-snap clipping system. The torch must be small enough to grip comfortably without restricting hand movement or fin technique. A body diameter under 40 mm and a length under 150 mm keeps the torch manageable during descent, turns, and ascent.
A narrow beam angle — around 8–10 degrees — concentrates the light output into a tight, far-reaching spot. This is far more useful for freedivers than a wide flood beam. When scanning a reef wall or searching under a ledge, a focused beam reaches deeper into the structure and provides a clear point of reference. A 3,000-lumen output through a narrow beam delivers impressive throw — enough to illuminate targets at meaningful distance even in reduced visibility.
Weight and buoyancy deserve consideration. A slightly negative torch is easier to manage underwater than one that floats — it stays in your hand naturally without requiring a constant grip. On the surface, a lanyard prevents loss if you need both hands free.
Battery and burn time must match the way freedivers use a torch. Unlike scuba, where a light runs continuously for an hour or more, a freediving torch is typically switched on and off between dives. This intermittent use pattern means that even a moderate burn time — 2 to 3 hours at 50% power — translates into a full session of diving. A single rechargeable cell (such as a 26650 lithium-ion) keeps the torch compact while providing enough capacity for a day on the water.
What to Look for in a Freediving Torch
- Size and grip — the torch must be comfortable to hold in one hand for the duration of a dive. A body diameter of 35–45 mm and a total length under 150 mm is the practical range. Anything larger becomes awkward during equalisation, duck dives, and turns.
- Beam angle — a narrow beam (8–12 degrees) is more useful than a wide flood for freediving applications. It concentrates output for distance, helps locate targets in holes and crevices, and avoids washing out the diver’s peripheral vision at night.
- Output — 1,500–3,000 lumens is a strong range for a compact freediving torch. Higher output is available but generates more heat and drains the battery faster. Multiple power modes allow the diver to balance brightness against burn time depending on the situation.
- Switch operation — must be simple and reliable for one-handed use, even in gloves or with cold hands. A twist switch or a recessed push button that will not activate accidentally in a pocket or float vest is preferred.
- Lanyard attachment — essential. Freedivers cannot clip off a torch the way scuba divers do. A wrist lanyard keeps the torch secure during duck dives and surface intervals without requiring a constant grip.
Maintenance and Care
Rinse the torch with fresh water after every session, paying attention to the switch area and the threads where the head meets the body. Salt crystals accumulate in these areas and can compromise the O-ring seal over time.
Inspect the O-ring regularly. Remove it, clean the groove, check for nicks or debris, and apply a thin film of silicone grease before reassembly. A single grain of sand on the O-ring can cause a flood.
Remove the battery if the torch will not be used for an extended period. Store the battery at approximately 50–70% charge in a cool, dry place — this preserves cell health and extends its useful lifespan. Avoid leaving the battery fully charged or fully depleted for weeks at a time.
Before each dive session, test the torch on all power modes and check the beam for flickering or dimming that might indicate a weak battery or poor contact. Carry a spare battery on multi-session days.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a dive torch for freediving?
For daytime reef freediving in clear water, no. But for night freediving, dawn and dusk spearfishing, exploring darker structures, or diving in reduced visibility, a compact torch is essential. It is also a useful safety tool — a bright beam is visible to boats and safety divers from a considerable distance.
Why a narrow beam instead of a wide flood?
A narrow beam concentrates the light output into a tight spot that reaches further and illuminates specific targets — holes, crevices, ledges — without flooding the diver’s peripheral vision. This is more practical for freediving than a wide beam, which disperses energy over a large area and reduces effective range. At night, a narrow beam also preserves the diver’s adapted night vision outside the illuminated area.
How long will the battery last during a freediving session?
Freedivers use a torch intermittently — on during the dive, off during surface recovery. A torch rated at 2.5 hours at 50% power under continuous use will last significantly longer in real freediving conditions, often covering an entire session on a single charge. Carrying a spare battery is still good practice for extended days on the water.
Can I use a scuba dive torch for freediving?
You can, but most scuba torches are larger and heavier than necessary for freediving. Canister lights, goodman-handle primaries, and bulky handheld scuba torches add drag and weight that a freediver does not want. A compact, single-cell handheld with high output and a narrow beam is purpose-matched to the way freedivers use light underwater.
Should the torch float or sink?
A slightly negative (sinking) torch is generally easier to handle underwater — it stays in your grip naturally without buoyancy pulling it away. On the surface, a wrist lanyard prevents loss. Some freedivers prefer a neutral or slightly positive torch for safety, but this is personal preference. What matters most is that the torch is always secured with a lanyard.